In recent years, I have often communicated with many brides and grooms, and this is what I realized: preparing for a wedding, even the simplest one, sometimes becomes a real stress for the future husband. The future groom, especially if he does not wear a suit every day, is tormented by a thousand doubts: “How will I look next to the bride?”, “Will I look up to par?”, “What color should I buy a suit and shirt for the wedding?”, “A three-piece suit or just a jacket?”, “What accessories to choose for a wedding?” Plus add here numerous stereotypes from friends and mother, who always have their own understanding of what a groom should look like.
The bride's wedding dress, of course, attracts more attention than the groom's outfit, but this does not mean that it is less important. What wedding suit should the groom buy? It depends on many factors. So what to do? How to choose the right suit for the groom and choose shoes and accessories?
Here's my guide to make your choice easier and more enjoyable and fun.
Tips: how to choose a groom's suit. Features and Details
The main rule is that the groom’s suit must match the wedding style and the bride’s dress.
The first thing to keep in mind is that all the details of the wedding must be in harmony, so the main rule is that the groom’s suit must match the style of the bride and the wedding. Etiquette requires compliance with certain rules that are very specific to each type of groom's suit. If the wedding dress is classic with a train and veil, and the ceremony is being held at a high level, in Europe and Italy grooms choose tight / midi-tight suits.
For less formal weddings, a smart choice is the classic three-piece suit, which is ideal for all types of ceremonies.
If the bride is wearing a short wedding dress or the wedding is taking place on the beach, it is better to choose a two-piece suit for the groom, and in the case of a summer wedding, a suit in lighter or traditional blue and gray colors is preferable.
Here's a little "elegance guide" for the groom to avoid the most common mistakes.
Shirt
When choosing a shirt, the first thing you need to consider is the quality of the fabric.
In this case, it is better not to save money and purchase the highest quality options that will allow you to impress your invited guests. Also, the shirt should be selected based on the personal tastes and preferences of the groom.
Additionally, you should take into account the chosen style of the celebration. The color of the shirt should be selected based on the shade of the bride's dress. It is not necessary to use exclusively white tones; the color palette can be varied. The option of a snow-white shirt with stripes would also be quite acceptable.
If the groom plans to wear a shirt after the wedding, he should choose options for a more free style and color.
What suits are intended for the groom?
I know that many men look especially impressive in a tuxedo. But a tuxedo is an evening suit. Therefore, it will be more appropriate for evening celebrations.
For daytime weddings, tight/mezzo tight suits are intended, but the best choice would be an elegant classic suit, provided that it is not double-breasted. In fact, a classic suit is the choice of 80% of grooms in both Italy and Russia.
Let's look at everything in order.
To size
It is very important that the suit matches the groom's size. This can be determined by raising your arms up and bending over, crouching slightly. If the fabric does not restrict movement, the outfit is suitable. Let's list the basic rules.
- The trousers end in the middle of the heel of the shoes.
- There are no folds on the shoulders.
- The darts on the jacket are in their place.
- When the arms are lowered, the edge of the sleeve reaches the bone of the thumb on the hand.
- If you bend your arm, your shirt cuff will show halfway out from under your jacket sleeve.
So, the main rules for a classic wedding suit
Textile
Wool. Depending on the season, the fabric for the groom's suit can have various additives: from cashmere for winter to silk, cotton, linen and even hemp and hemp (canapa) in other seasons. Avoid suits with a lot of linen: in them the groom runs the risk of looking a little sloppy very quickly.
A wedding is an occasion when a man can wear a suit made of glittery fabric. Usually in special collections for ceremonies, silk thread or lurex is added to the fabric. Or for woolen or mixed fabrics, a special jacquard weave is allowed. But keep in mind that such a suit after the wedding will only be appropriate for festive events or an evening out.
My advice : if you want to use your money for a groom's suit more rationally, buy or have a custom-made classic suit of very good quality made of matte plain fabric, also of the highest quality that you can afford.
Color
Gray and blue are ideal colors for a wedding suit. But in the warm season, if the wedding ceremony is not very formal and takes place outdoors, especially by the sea, a wedding suit in a lighter color - beige or blue - would be appropriate. For autumn and winter weddings, a burgundy or brown suit will be acceptable.
Blazer
The main rule is that the fit of the groom's jacket must be perfect! The jacket of a wedding suit should be single-breasted with two or three buttons. It’s better with two vents on the back, two side “framed” pockets without a flap, a chest pocket and a buttonhole.
Trousers
Should be slightly tapered, but not too narrow, and without cuffs.
Shirt
Only boiling white with a classic hard collar, French or Italian - as you like, but always without buttons and decorative elements. Although avid fashionistas can afford a collar with a pin.
Especially for the ladies: please, no colored groom's shirts to match the dress or flowers!
Vest
A classic for the groom is a vest made of silk satin in light colors: gray, champagne, blue and light yellow. It can also be made from other fabrics: high-quality linen, shantung silk and silk jacquard. Can be double-breasted or single-breasted.
Pocket square - pochette
Ideally white, but it can also be a color from the wedding palette. The main thing is that it should not be made of the same fabric as the tie! If you prefer a tie and pocket square of the same color, choose them in different textures. According to etiquette, the proximity of a boutonniere and a pochette is also unacceptable. But this very rule is constantly violated, especially in America, so on the Internet you can find a million photos “for inspiration”, where both a pochette and a boutonniere are present at the same time.
Shoes
Oxfords in matte leather. Under no circumstances varnished. Elegant moccasins are only appropriate for a beach wedding.
What is the difference between Oxford shoes and Derby shoes?
Accessories
A wedding is a moment when the groom should wear a minimum of jewelry: no bracelets, chains, and especially rings. The only ring you will wear on this day is your wedding ring. Cufflinks will be very beautiful; if desired, you can wear a tie clip.
Suitable shade palette
The color of the groom's suit deserves special attention. Gray, blue and black products are considered classics. True, based on the latest fashion trends, you can choose other colors. The main thing is that the general style of the event is preserved and the harmonious combination of the outfits of both heroes of the occasion is noted.
To create a suitable image, the following color shades can be used:
- snow-white. Quite slender, tall guys will look great in a white suit. True, in such clothes all the shortcomings clearly stand out. Therefore, if a man is overweight, you should not give preference to this tone. The groom in white will look great if he chooses a light shirt and a bright tie. Also, this accessory can be made in dark color;
- black. An excellent solution for all men, regardless of shape and age. In this case, it is possible to create the most solemn image;
- blue. The combination of such an outfit with either a white or a light blue or cream shirt will look elegant;
- grey. Also refers to the classics. The shade is universal and will suit absolutely everyone, regardless of external features. An excellent solution would be a purple or red tie, acting as a bright accent.
An original solution would be a brown checkered suit. The main thing in this case is not to overload the image. Therefore, it is recommended to give preference to light, plain shirts.
Tight for the groom
Tight is a classic suit that makes the groom stand out. As a rule, it is worn for an official ceremony, which takes place before 18:00, when the bride is dressed in a white dress with a train and veil.
Tight consists of three parts.
Blazer
Dark gray or black jacket with one button. Short at the front while widened at the back, the length is knee-length. There are also tight dark blue colors.
Trousers
The trousers are gray, pinstripe, straight cut and without cuffs.
Vest
single or double breasted, usually in light gray satin, although the traditional color is beige. The shirt is only white, with French cuffs for cufflinks.
Tie
For the groom, a plastron tie is ideal, but a simple silk tie is also suitable. Never a bow tie.
Shoes
Always only black oxfords made of matte leather.
Accessories
And in the buttonhole there are only white flowers: gardenias, camellias, small roses, carnations.
Etiquette also requires the addition of gloves and a top hat (but not during the ceremony), as well as a cane. And one more thing: if the groom is wearing a tight, the witnesses and fathers of the bride and groom should also wear this type of suit.
Official version: weddings in the style of “Black Tie”
Weddings in the “Black Tie” or “Black Tie” style are very popular in the West, but are sometimes found in our latitudes.
We should note that technically Black Tie is evening wear and should not be worn before 5pm.
Now, if you and your bride are aiming for a Black Tie wedding, then you need to dress accordingly. Although, wearing a Black Tie is often more expensive than a suit, it is actually easier to wear as the rules governing this style are very cut and dry - wearing a classic tuxedo means following the same rules as the rest of bohemian society .
Wedding in Black Tie style
If you follow the Black Tie dress code, we recommend purchasing your own tuxedo; Rental tuxedos are usually made of synthetic materials; you will sweat and be uncomfortable all evening. This is definitely not what you want at your wedding.
Remember that most people don't have a Black Tie ensemble available - they will need at least a few months to rent or purchase a tuxedo.
Finally, be wary of newfangled brightly colored tuxedos or imitation "Black Tie" styles; The only impression this will leave about your wedding day is that you have absolutely no sense of style.
Midi-tight for the groom
A slightly more informal version of the groom's suit than the tight - midi-tight. Unlike tight, it does not require accessories such as gloves and a hat. The jacket is shorter, the trousers are plain. Mezzo-tight is sort of in the middle between a classic three-piece suit and a tight one. It is ideal for grooms who do not want to give up the practicality and convenience, but at the same time, the charm and charm of a late 19th century men's suit.
Create a fashionable look
It is difficult to diversify a men's suit, but still modern models differ from classic ones. Differences can be seen both in style and color. Classic black “twos” are increasingly reserved for business meetings and serious events, and at weddings young people want to emphasize their own style and taste.
If we talk about the shape of suits, you should pay attention to the following options:
- Suit with double-breasted jacket. This is one of the classic versions, but now it is at the peak of popularity. A double row of buttons and overlapping coat tails make the look more stately and solemn. This style is more suitable for thin, tall young men. The jacket must be fastened with all buttons.
- Cropped trousers . A suit in which the trousers end at the ankle level or higher may be suitable for tall men. You should choose such models carefully, since poor-quality cutting can make the image look ridiculous.
- Modern image of the groom in a tight-fitting suit . A fitted jacket and tapered trousers have firmly established themselves in the ranking of fashionable options. If you take your choice seriously, you can choose such a model to suit almost any figure and appearance.
- Shorts instead of trousers . This option is suitable for brave men who are not afraid of judgment from others. In the summer, classic shorts will be a little relief for the groom.
- Straight cut with two buttons . Classic-style suits are back in fashion, but with some modifications. The trousers must be straight with one arrow, and the jacket must be fastened with two buttons.
- Luxury style . The image of an English lord came into fashion. The groom can wear a tailcoat or tuxedo to his own wedding if a magnificent celebration is planned.
- Loose fit . In recent seasons, suits with loose trousers have become fashionable. This option is suitable for an outdoor summer wedding, but for a classic celebration it is better to choose a different cut.
- Without a jacket . The groom can only choose trousers and a shirt, and if desired, also a vest. He will look stylish, and nothing will hinder his movements. We wrote more about this option here.
Smoking for the groom
The term "tuxedo" is used in French- and German-speaking countries, as well as in Italy. In America, a tuxedo is called a “Tuxedo”, and in England – a “Dinner Jacket”. There is also a “Smoking Jacket”, which is always made of velvet and complemented by an embroidered shawl collar. But all this is not what we are talking about now, and has nothing to do with the suit for the groom.
Of course, most men look especially formal and handsome in a tuxedo - all thanks to the strong contrast between the color of the tuxedo and the whiteness of the shirt. And although the tuxedo is the most popular suit for the groom in America, the tuxedo dress code is more suitable for gala evenings and evening weddings.
What does a tuxedo suit consist of?
Blazer
Single or double breasted with lapels trimmed in satin (usually black or white) or grosgrain silk.
Shirt
In this case, strictly white, preferably with French cuffs for cufflinks; may have a shirt front and contrasting mother-of-pearl silver buttons.
Vest or belt
The tuxedo is characterized by a black vest, which can be replaced by a wide belt made of satin in the same color as the bow tie.
Variations on the theme of color
It is believed that the color of a suit should match the season, although few people adhere to this rule anymore. Light (white, beige, gray, sand, blue, silver) - for spring and summer, dark (black, graphite, brown, blue) - for autumn and winter.
The bride's snow-white dress will go well with trousers and a jacket of any shade, but if it is a different color, then the suit should be no brighter than the bride's outfit. To give a monochromatic suit a dramatic look, you can wear a vest in a contrasting shade, but do not forget about the “three-color rule” (there should be no more than 3 shades).
The newlyweds' outfits should be in harmony with each other.
It is also important what color the groom’s shirt and tie are, since they should match the bride’s dress. Here are a few examples: a white shirt and tie are best suited to a snow-white dress; a shirt and tie of the same shade are best suited to a champagne-colored outfit.
Advice from Albione
Blonde men suit dark shades, brunettes and brown-haired men, as well as people with dark skin, light shades.
Tailcoat – Frac
In Italy it is also called marsina. A tailcoat is a formal suit for men that can be worn during the day or evening. If the phrase “white tie” is written on the invitation, then you must come in a tailcoat (“black tie” implies a tuxedo).
A tailcoat is required, for example, at the Nobel Prize ceremony. And for the groom’s wedding suit, a tailcoat will be ideal in the event of a large classic wedding with important guests and an intimate setting, when the bride is in a chic dress and veil.
The tailcoat consists of:
Blazer
Double-breasted black with a “swallow tail” (the secret of elegance lies in it), with a satin collar, which, unlike a tuxedo collar, is always worn unbuttoned.
Vest
Not required, but must be made from white piqué fabric only.
Papillon
Like the vest, the bow tie should be made of white piqué.
Trousers
Black, without folds, with satin stripes.
Shoes
Black patent leather oxfords.
Shoes
It may seem that choosing shoes for the groom is a simple task. But this only applies to ordinary black shoes; finding an extraordinary solution can sometimes be quite difficult.
When choosing shoes, you should be guided by the following principles:
- If it is necessary to visually reduce the length of the foot, it is recommended to choose shoes with blunt toes. This solution is suitable for grooms with tall stature and large feet;
- the sharp toe of the shoe, on the contrary, is suitable for tall men with small feet;
- high heels are useful if the bride is taller than the groom. This decision will help level out growth;
- It is recommended that the groom's shoes and belt match. They can be either varnished or matte, based on the preferences of the groom.
Experts recommend purchasing shoes after a hard day. If you buy it in the morning, there is a high probability that by the evening it will strongly compress your leg. It is necessary that the shoes fit perfectly on the foot, do not dangle or pinch. It's best to start shopping for shoes a few weeks before the ceremony.
Original suits for the groom
If you type in the search “suit for the groom”, no matter in Russian or Italian, you will find many pictures of suits made of gabardine, brocade, satin, with brooches on ties, funny vests and strange collars, embroidery (sometimes you come across real bad taste). Surprisingly, such suits for grooms have become very popular in recent years.
These are modern variations on the theme of mezzo tight, tuxedo and men's suit of the 19th century, where designers compete in originality and abundance of decorative details.
As you can see, modern designers have completely reworked the classic men's suits and military uniforms of past centuries, the Rococo style and have created “hybrid” models that have great success, especially among young people in the southern latitudes - where beauty is associated exclusively with luxury and brilliance.
How to put together a groom's suit of this type?
My advice : Advice - rely on the designer's choice. From the set he offers, remove the parts that make the suit too elegant, but do not add others (new or from another set).
All clear? Now are you ready to pick out your groom's suit and put it together?
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